The Wandersun
Pecel Pojok Bongkaran: A Midnight Flame in Tuban

Pecel Pojok Bongkaran: A Midnight Flame in Tuban

#WanderAround

Culinary

Local DishSignature Recipe

Published byDicha “Doch” Fernaldi onApril 24, 2025

Photography: Fikri Firdaus

Nights are not always quiet in Tuban, a seaside town where temple walls meet salt-sprayed air and time seems to move a little more slowly. Pecel Pojok Bongkaran, a haven of warmth nestled in Pasar Bongkaran, quietly comes to life as the town envelops itself in sleep. It glows like a silent ember from eleven p.m. until the first light spreads across the sky, providing not only food but also something holy.

Pak Lishadi, also known as Pak Lis, is behind the stall. With his family, he has been serving the same food since 2000. He served a wide variety of dishes in the beginning, but eventually two stood out as pillars: Rawon and Pecel. In reality, what may appear to be simplicity is wisdom. These recipes, which have been honed over many years, are a testament to the closeness of home and tradition.

This place has a legendary Pecel. A combination of freshly blanched vegetables covered in a thick, fiery peanut sauce that roars rather than whispers. Unabashedly hot and adored for its sting, it is subdued by an unexpected component: kembang turi. A reminder that even fire can be tender is provided by these pale blossoms. Then came the Tempe, which was perfectly cooked, still warm, and crackled like brittle autumn leaves with each bite.

Rawon, a Javanese black beef soup that tastes like midnight itself, is served with it. It envelops you like a blanket, darkened with Kluwek nuts and layered with delicate spices. It is the calm before the storm and the equilibrium to the Pecel's fire.

Banner 0
Banner 1
Banner 2
Banner 3
Banner 4
Banner 5
Banner 6

Not only is the taste remarkable, but so is the humility. At Rp5.000 for Pecel and Rp7.000 for Rawon, prices are essentially set in stone. Everyone can find food here, including market workers, truck drivers, students, and poets who have nowhere else to go.

The warung itself is simple, with tarps above, plastic stools, and steam rising into the night. However, there are connections within that simplicity. Strangers converse with one another. The sound of sambal being stirred is mixed with laughter. And Pak Lis, who never loses his cool or smiles, serves every plate as if it were important. Pecel Pojok Bongkaran is more than just a restaurant; it is the silent heartbeat of Tuban, throbbing steadily all night long. A rite, a haven, a fire that nourishes memory and hunger.